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Tasmania: where to go on an eco-trek?
Roughly the size of Sri Lanka, Tasmania has a population of only 500,000. The island is located 200km south of the eastern side of the continent being separated from it by Bass Strait. It promotes itself as a Natural State owing to its large, and relatively unspoilt, natural environment. 40% of Tasmania is formally in reserves, National Parks and World Heritage Sites.
The First Settlers
The first Europeans who reached the shores of Tasmania were sealers and escaped convicts. When they stepped shore in north-east Tasmania, they were enchanted by the sight of bare-breasted Aboriginal women diving for oysters and other shellfish. It was a harsh, windswept coast, scattered with tribes whose women were the primary food gatherers, fishing the icy waters. The men with braided long hair, stayed on the beach.
Initially the tribes were befriended with presents of flour, salt, sugar, jam. In exchange the black mermaids caught their food but the friendly exchanges were soon replaced by open warfare. Through persecution and disease, the population of about 10,000 dwindled to 300 in 1833 and the last full-blood Tasmanian Aborigine, Truganini, died in Hobart in 1876.
Bay Of Fires
In the north-east of Tasmania are little mountains where we took our four-day walk. The region is called ‘Bay of Fires', a phrase coined by an English sea captain to describe the Aboriginal practice of setting bushfires to flush out kangaroos and other animals. This strategy also helped to regenerate native vegetation. Our walk was a constant reminder of the people who once scratched a living here.
Eco Adventure
We did not have to take our sleeping bags and stayed in dry lodgings with sumptuous food. The weather is variable and it depends when you are going. The tour company provides Gore-Tex jackets, packs, torches and all bedding.
The accommodations are designed to have minimum impact on the environment: only compacting loos are used, and rubbish is taken out by helicopter at the end of each season. At the lodge, guests must hand- pump water for their showers.
Mt William National Park
Mt William National Park's diverse vegetation is a haven for wildlife. This area is home to the largest population of eastern grey kangaroos in the state, as well as echidnas, brush-tail possums, wombats, Bennetts wallabies and Tasmanian devils. Birdlife too is abundant, with over 100 species occurring in the park, including many varieties of sea and shore birds. Here, huge middens of discarded shells are a reminder of the days when tribes would migrate to the coast in winter to forage for shellfish, mutton birds and seals.
At the edge of Mt. William National Park, lies the magnificent wilderness coastline known as the Bay of Fires with a dramatic landscape, ecology and wildlife. The adventure tour is led by young Tasmanian guides. During the tour we explored both the fascinating beach environment and the rich diversity of the nearby woodlands.
The Adventure
We drive from Evandale (near Launceston) through the scenic and rich pastoral landscapes of Scottsdale to the northern end of Mt William National Park. The walk begins at Boulder Point with views north to the Bass Strait Islands, stepping stones remaining of the land bridge that once connected Tasmania to the mainland.
The national park is home to dolphins, seals, fairy penguins and all manner of sea-birds. Distinctive hooded plovers nest busily along the shore. Every year, a humpback whale or two will drift into view.
The next day we get elevated views of the park and a view out to sea are enjoyed from the ridgeline of sand dunes and prime heathlands. The biggest single challenge of the walk is fording a tidal creek through waist-high water.
We take a day off to relax and set off on yet another adventure; paddling the tranquil waters of Ansons River. We take a kayak to discover the delicate ecology of this river system as it winds its way to the mouth of Ansons Bay.
On the last day, we leave the lodge on foot and make your way through the fragrant inland heath and peppermint forests to a secluded spot for lunch. Then we walk south to the fishing village of St Helens and through the scenic and historic Fingal Valley before returning to Evandale (near Launceston).
An incredible journey that takes an equal amount of time to adjust to the new world. But a hot shower and a slice of gourmet food are guaranteed to restore one's cultural equilibrium.
About the Author
Harish Kohli is an adventure travel expert and CEO of www.awimaway.com. He has walked and skied across the Himalayas, travelled to the five continents and is the author of "Across the frozen Himalaya". For tailor made Australia holidays visit www.awimaway.com.
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